A green Töfftöff marks the entrance to the backyard and welcomes the hungry visitor with ambience. On the parking lot in front of it, there are no pale stalls lined up, but graffiti-painted trucks. There's no question about it: with the "Markt im Hof", which has set up shop on Wallstraße, a whiff of New York's "Meatpacking District" is blowing through Sachsenhausen: not a consumer market, but a gathering place for indulgence and hip lifestyle attitudes. In Los Angeles, too, eating from mobile kitchens has long been part of the street scene. Since last year, the tasty trucks have been parked bumper to bumper here: those who want a paw-sized Burger from Bullys Truck have to wait just as patiently as the hungry next door who are tempted by the prospect of a Hessendöner (bun with Kassler) or farmer's cheese.
The patient wait marks the relaxed calm that hangs over the courtyard, which is so packed that there is rarely a seat to be found on the benches. Another difference from the convenience store, where shoppers not infrequently rush through the rows with their wheeled carts on Saturdays. Those who come here have time and queue up on the right in the car park for a cappucchino, which Hoppenworth & Ploch spits out of polished, shiny silver espresso machines and is available for 2.40 euros. The coffee stands arrange themselves on the right side with the sausage vendors, who are not called "Mett-Maxe" here either, but have such fancy names as "Rhein-Main BBQ-Society", whose assortment includes the announced pastrami. But the real highlight is in the market hall itself: at the "Glücksrolle" stand, the blender is constantly chopping up Frankfurt herbs to make green smoothies that sell like hotcakes. In the back left corner, the "Méxichicas", first-timers, roll up their tortillas and have done everything right with their limited choices between meat and vegetarian. Plus everyone gets good sides like guacamole and salsa. Mexican food is my favorite thing and the taco shops of Southern California have spoiled me. But given the burrito filled with little vegetable trimmings but enough lettuce, cheese and beans, all I can say is keep up the good work!
The Market in the Courtyard is always open Saturdays at 11 Wall St. from 10 am to 7 pm.
Sabina Brauner is on twitter @WentoManderly and FB.