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Potato and goat cheese dumplings with quince jelly

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Not all too often I experience it that a dessert remains permanently in my memory. This is such a case, and I have therefore asked its author, Ingo Holland ("Altes Rentamt", Klingenberg am Main; 1 Michelin star), to tell me the exact quantities.

Here the recipe (for 6 persons): 0.75 kg potatoes, floury cooking, 250 g boiled potatoes, salt, 1/8 l boiling hot milk, 400 g goat cheese, 125 g butter, 75 g breadcrumbs, approx. 250 g chilled quince jelly, 6 tsp icing sugar.

Pee raw potatoes, grate finely, squeeze vigorously in a cloth; collect the liquid and allow the starch to settle. Also peel boiled potatoes, press through a press and add to the grated potatoes. Add salt and starch and pour over the hot milk. Make the dumplings into a smooth dough.

Form the goat cheese into 12 small balls, wrap them in the potato dough and form them into balls with wet hands.

Let the dumplings steep in lightly boiling salted water for about 12 minutes. In the meantime, melt the butter until golden brown and stir in the crumbs.

Spread 2 tablespoons of jelly on each of 6 plates, place 2 well-drained dumplings on each plate and pour the crumble butter over it. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon un sieved icing sugar over each and serve immediately.


Bio cheese made from goat's milk, sheep's milk and cow's milk - always pure. Allergy sufferers appreciate this.

When dental technician Gudrun and avionics technician Jörg Diener expected their first child 21 years ago, they began to deal with questions of healthy nutrition. Soon own vegetables sprouted, hardly later a little lamb jumped around, and then it did not take long any more, until one dared to cheese. Later the family turned their backs on the Rhine-Main area and acquired the Herbertsmühle, a beautifully situated estate near Hünfeld in the Rhön. For 16 years the servants have been living from the yield of their cheese dairy and still keep sheep and zebus on their pastures, but they are not milked, the family business simply lacks time for this. No wonder, with a production range of about 15 types of cheese, with herbal variations there are considerably more. Nevertheless, the distances are short, as all the milk comes from the Rhön Biosphere Reserve and is produced in a controlled organic way.

The Herbertsmühle is distinguished by cheese made from goat's milk as well as sheep's and cow's milk. With the exception of fresh cheeses, the raw material is always raw milk. In addition, all cheeses are made from 100% milk; sheep's or goat's milk is never mixed with cow's milk, which is important for allergy sufferers. This varietal purity allows interesting comparisons, for example with the Camemberts or the Bauerngouda. By the way, cheese can already be distinguished by its colour: those made from sheep's or goat's milk are pure white, whereas cow's milk cheese has a yellowish colour due to the natural beta-carotene contained in the milk.

To refine it into cheese, the milk is first stirred into the bacterial culture before it is heated, which determines the later variety. In addition there is rennet, which coagulates the milk. In the Herbertsmühle, only natural rennet obtained from calf stomachs can be used, not genetically engineered, as is often the case. Although Jörg and Gudrun Diener have occasionally visited French companies, their knowledge has mainly been acquired through learning by doing - and they have paid a good apprenticeship fee. Like when she tried red cheese, Munster's part of it. In no time at all, the bacteria infected the entire cheese dairy and all the products turned reddish. It was a nice effort to get the rooms clean again. Own, strictly separated rooms would have been necessary, but they cost a lot of money.

Cheese cannot be a cheap food, because 100 kilos of milk become just 10 kg of cheese. They have to be cared for constantly, mature their time and nevertheless they do not always turn out. Diener turns goat's milk into one of his showpieces: Crottin, matured goat cheese with a more or less firm, natural rind; an inconspicuous but noble cheese, which can compete well with the French original. It is easy to gratinate, for example for an appetizer. On the other hand, cheese has always been used for desserts, such as juicy cheesecakes. But I am particularly taken with this dessert: potato goat cheese dumplings with quince jelly, after a recipe by Ingo Holland (Restaurant Altes Rentamt, Klingenberg am Main).

Farm cheese dairy Jörg und Gudrun Diener


36088 Hünfeld (Rhön)

Telephone: 06652 / 6663

Fax: 72739



Opening hours: Friday: Frankfurt, Market Stock Exchange Saturday: Frankfurt, Bauernmarkt Konstabler Wache.

from Waldemar Thomas

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