For 4 people: 1 kg fresh lean pork from the leg, 1 kg onions, 4 cloves garlic, salt, ground black pepper, cumin, marjoram, 1 tbsp wheat flour, 1/2 tsp rose paprika, 1 tbsp tomato paste, 3 heaped tbsp vegetable fat.
Cut the meat into cubes of about 4 cm edge length. Heat 2 tablespoons of fat in a roasting pan and fry the meat cubes on all sides until golden brown. Season vigorously - except with paprika. Finally, dust with the flour, stir through and set aside.
Peel and quarter the onions, peel and chop the garlic. Saute both well in the remaining fat, stirring constantly. Stir in the rose pepper and tomato paste, pour in a quart of water and cook in the covered pot for 10 minutes. Then puree with a shredding rod. Pour the onion puree over the meat cubes, stir through and place the covered roaster in a preheated oven at 120° for about 1 hour.
With this, Martha Emmert serves potato dumplings "half and half" - made from raw and cooked potatoes.
From really tasty pork
Detlev and Birgit Leinhos run the butcher's shop founded by their grandfather in 1926 at the same location today. In 1991 they took over the business from their father, who coined the motto of the house: "Lieber gut, dafür etwas teurer". Detlef Leinhos and his brother Andreas followed in senior's footsteps by both passing the exam to become master butchers with distinction - and did not rest on their early fame, but repeatedly received the highest scores for their sausages in the guild's internal competitions.
The prerequisite for this, how could it be otherwise, is first-class meat. Leinhos gets it, as well as the beef, from the "Bäuerliche Erzeugergemeinschaft Eichenhof" from the northern Münsterland, which keeps and feeds its cattle and pigs according to demanding guidelines. This is controlled without prior notice, also butcher Leinhos has to reckon with controls in his butchery at any time. The pork halves come from animals crossbred from the Piétrain and Deutsches Landschwein breeds. As good as all this may sound, before he signed the contract Detlev Leinhos took a close look at the meat to convince himself of its quality. To the satisfaction of the expert, it turns out not to be completely fat-free, so it has flavour, is tender and does not ooze. Leinhos only buys pork sides of commercial grade E (= extra), as their meat content is extraordinarily high compared to that of bones.
Instead of complaining that pork has fallen into disrepute and plays only a minor role in fine cuisine, one should change the Leinhos motto and rather buy less, but better meat. Well, the way my grandfather prepared the food for his two pigs could hardly be done on a larger scale today. The potatoes were meticulously sorted and carefully washed, then steamed and made into a puree with milk, which was further enriched with grain meal. Grandfather's two pigs were kept with care and of course had free run. "Schlachtfest" was very justified, if they had to believe then in it, such outstanding Wohlgeschmack distinguished the meat. By the way: If you want to see how clean pigs are, if they are kept properly, visit the Domäne Mechtildshausen in Wiesbaden-Erbenheim. Watching the animals is pure joy, especially for children.
Leinhos pork has a price commensurate with its quality, which, however, should be affordable for everyone if consumed in reasonable quantities: shoulder or neck costs €11.50, leg €12.90, fillet €20.90 per kilo. The meat tastes great in many ways, not least grilled, Leinhos has, for example, spare ribs marinated in honey. I recommend a braised dish that one would like to be served more often, namely pork pepper, as Martha Emmert, landlady of the "Weinstube Fäßchen" on Schweizer Platz in Sachsenhausen, knows how to prepare it excellently.
Butchery
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Detlev and Birgit Leinhos
Yorckstr. 12
65195 Wiesbaden
Phone: 0611 - 406890
Fax: 0611-407145
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8-13 u. 15-18.30, Sat 7.30-12.30 (closed Tuesday afternoons)
from Waldemar Thomas